SAN MARCOS, A Land NOT So Far Away
by Lynn Chialtas, Palomar West Resident
INTRO
Palomar Estates West is a community nestled in the City of San Marcos, California. It is comprised of 474 mobile homes and approximately 800 full-time residents who have chosen to settle here from many areas of the United States and beyond. Why? What is it about this City that attracted so many of us? It could be the weather, the terrain, maybe family or friends, or the proximity to beaches, mountains, athletic activities and entertainment, shopping – whatever the attraction here you are. You have chosen San Marcos as your address. But what do you really know about this area?
Obviously there have been many stories and accounts about San Marcos published in various newspapers and on line in the past, but our own population changes and many of our residents may not have had the opportunity to become acquainted with this remarkable area.
I will attempt to inform (and possibly entertain) you with some things you haven’t read or heard about San Marcos. Things that are old, new, funny and some “not-so-public” bits as well. I’ll be going back to the beginning of time in San Marcos and end up in the present. My resources will be many and should be reliable. However I can’t absolutely attest to their complete accuracy as some will include personal stories, so the readers will have to do their own research if discrepancies are suspected. If you would like to submit personally known information I’d love to talk to you (I'm in the book)
CHAPTER ONE
As far back as 1797, this area, then a vast open expanse of hills, valleys and grassland vistas came to the attention of Spanish soldiers from the San Luis Rey Mission located in what is now Oceanside. The mission was named by a French Monk in honor of King Luis of France who took it over after Junipero Serra moved on. Because of its immense size it became known as the “King of Missions”. The Spanish soldiers named this area Los Vallecitos de San Marcos (The Little Valley of Saint Mark) because they discovered it on St. Mark’s Day of that year. At that time it was mainly home to Native Americans of the Shoshonean Indian branch. They were migrant hunter/gatherers that only stayed as long as food and game was plentiful, and then moved on. They called themselves “Westerners”. The Spanish soldiers referred to them as “Luisenos” in honor of King Luis, but they were considered robbers and vagrants for stealing flocks from the San Luis Rey Mission, and were being pursued for such. This pursuit is what led the troops to this valley. The Indians escaped into the hills and the soldiers discontinued their pursuit and returned to the Mission. Little Valley of Saint Mark was officially claimed by the Spaniards but chances are the Indians continued to visit the area at will.
Oceanside and Mission San Luis in the early 1800's
In 1827 Juan Bautista Alvarado, an 18 year old of questionable character, and whose relevance to this area doesn’t apply till later, became secretary of the territorial legislature, among other posts, in Monterey of the Alta California Province. His ambition took him to greater heights in politics with a reputation for coup attacks on government agencies, jail time, and adversarial activities that made him many enemies. He was also known for excessive drinking and fathering at least two illegitimate daughters. He was forced to flee Monterey and made a southward migration to Los Angeles. In 1836, at the age of 27, Alvarado was made governor of the Los Angeles territories but in 1837 when the city protested, he and two friends, avoiding a civil war, came to San Diego where he was again appointed governor. He presided over a large territory that included The Valley of Saint Mark. San Diego and all of California was officially under Mexican rule by that time.
In 1840 Governor Alvarado granted Rancho Vallecitos de San Marcos to his relative, Jose Alvarado. Jose was killed at the Pauma Massacre out in the east county in 1846. Rancho Vallecitos went to Jose’s wife who then sold it to Lorenzo Soto. There was a fight from the Alvarado descendents over the sale but California had become the 31st State and the Land Act of 1851 eventually granted Lorenzo Soto a patent for his possession of the land. In 1851 part of Rancho Vallecitos de San Marcos, about 8000+ acres, went to former Army Lt. Cave Couts. There is some question as to whether it was Soto who sold him the land or that it was given to Couts and his bride Isadora as a wedding gift from her brother-in-law Abel Stearn. Cave and Isadora used the acres to raise livestock and they called it “Rancho San Marcos”. Regardless of how the debate ended it marked the historical beginning of what is now the City of San Marcos.
Early Twin Oaks
CHAPTER TWO
Ok – So we left our San Marcos history in the hands of Army Lt. Cave Couts and his wife Isadora circa 1851. Couts became a very successful cattleman and one of the wealthiest men in Southern California. He was also a sub-agent for the San Luis Rey Indians which allowed him to hire all the cheap help he needed for the improvement of his properties and the care of his livestock. He had added the Buena Vista and Los Vallecitos de San Marcos ranches located near his original Rancho San Marcos. He also obtained the La Jolla ranchos and some government land bringing his holdings up to approximately 20,000 acres. Having become very active in county and state politics Couts was definitely well known, well respected and a notable cattle baron. The Civil War in the East had come and gone without much effect on Cave Couts.
However life isn’t always predictable and the passing of the 1872 “No Fence Law” changed Couts stars. This new California law meant that cattle had to be “fenced in” to protect farmers land from being damaged by free-range livestock. Can you imagine what this meant to Couts and his 20,000 open acres of land and thousands of roaming cattle? He knew he couldn’t build that much fencing so he had to sell off his stock at a considerable loss. Couts never recovered from this financial blow. He died two years later in 1874. His family and heirs stayed in the area and grazed sheep on the San Marcos Rancho that they now owned.
In 1875 the Little Valley of St. Mark welcomed its first official homesteaders. Major Gustavus Merriam of Topeka, Kansas along with his wife, son and a daughter arrived via train to San Francisco, boat to Oceanside and most likely horse and buggy to their 160 acre claim adjoining the Couts property. Mr. Merriam was an educated man with military service to his credit and was doing well in the mercantile trade, but the health of wife Nina had been deteriorating for some time. In 1974 their doctor insisted that she needed a milder climate, so to California they came. Their new home was built next to a big double-trunked oak tree so they named their property “Twin Oaks Valley”. Hmm. Major Merriam planted vineyards and sold wine and honey to get his start, but much of his new life was helped considerably by his older brother Clinton Merriam of New York. Clinton was also an educated man, a member of the Republican Party and known by all that knew him as an honest politician who strongly fought dishonesty and immorality in public office. Clinton remained an active correspondent with his brother Gustavus over the years. Then in 1889 he decided it was time to visit Twin Oaks. He liked the area so much he commissioned Gustavus to build a home for himself and his daughter Florence near the Major’s homestead. In the meantime, Clinton and Florence returned to New York to tend to family business then came back to Twin Oaks in 1894. Clinton only stayed a short time and never returned to California, but Florence stayed in the house they called “La Mesita” becoming a notable influence as a writer and naturalist. The house remained in the Merriam family until 2001 when it was sold to a nursery group and later to the Training, Education and Research Institute. La Mesita still stands to this day on Deer Springs Road in Twin Oaks Valley.
Major Gustavus Merriam Homestead & Family, 1875 Clinton Merriam's "La Mesita", 1889
During the Merriam years more settlers had started arriving to claim their place in San Marcos history. There was a census taken in 1880 that listed 98 names. It included sixteen families, several groups and a number of individuals. This included their names, ages, relationships, occupation (if deemed appropriate) and birth histories.
